what is the easy way to removed shocks with rusty screws on 1998 for e150 ecoline ?
Organizing Nuts and Bolts
Keeping basics, bolts, washers, clamps, etc. organized is important for two reasons… i) it will save you lot time and frustration when re-installing the manual and two) it will insure all nuts and bolts are replaced in their original locations.
Organize nuts and bolts: For organizing nuts and bolts, we recommend using labeled plastic containers or baggies, whichever you take available. Information technology'due south best to get all the containers or baggies labeled earlier starting the job.
For removing the transmission from a rear wheel drive vehicle, yous volition need the post-obit labeled containers/baggies.
> Driveshaft Bolts/U-Joint Bolts
> Shifter Linkage Nuts/Bolts/Clips
> Cross Member Basics/Bolts
> Manual Mount Nuts/Bolts
> Transmission Oil Fill/Dipstick Tube Bracket Bolt or Nut
> Transmission Oil Libation Line Plumbing fixtures Washers
> Starter Bolts
> Frazzle and Frazzle Heat Shield Bolts/Nuts
> Bell Housing Bolts
> Flywheel Cover Plate Bolts
> Torque Converter to Flywheel Bolts (or Nuts)
> Miscellaneous
Note: Depending on your vehicle, additional labeled containers may be needed.
Allow's Get Started
Park your vehicle on a flat concrete surface, put the shifter in Park, prepare the emergency brake, pull the hood latch and then open the hood.
1) Remove the negative battery cable. Move the cablevision end away from the bombardment post.
Safe Tip: To eliminate any chance of battery arching, subsequently removing the battery cable, wrap a rag around the cablevision cease and place a wrap over the battery last.
Annotation Almost Radio Code: On many newer vehicles, whenever the battery is asunder a radio lawmaking is needed to go the stereo working once again. Check your Vehicle Owner's Manual for the code or contact the service department of any machine dealership that sells your brand vehicle for assistance. Have your vehicle identification number (VIN) readily available before making the call.
2-A) On some vehicles, information technology may be necessary to remove the black plastic air intake components to give your sufficient space to work.
ii-B) Now, locate the transmission fluid dipstick – pull it out and set information technology bated. The dipstick tube (likewise chosen manual fill tube) is normally secured to the transmission or engine with a single nut or bolt. If you tin see this nut/bolt and information technology is easily attainable, go ahead and remove it along with dipstick tube now. If not, you tin can remove it after from underneath.
Notwithstanding working under the hood, locate and disconnect whatever transmission electrical connectors you come across.
3-A) Remove any brackets, cables or hoses that connect the transmission to the engine.
iii-B) At present, locate the starter motor. Remove any starter bolts that are attainable. Whatsoever starter bolts that are not removed at present will be removed after from underneath. Complete removal of the starter is normally not necessary. Once the bolts are removed, just pull the starter out of the bong housing and push aside. Use a wire or stiff bungee cord to hold the starter'south weight – do non hang from the starter wiring.
3-C) Look closely at the top rear of the engine (dorsum past the firewall) where the manual bong housing bolts to the engine. Remove any of the peak bell housing to engine bolts that are accessible – otherwise the bolts volition be removed after from underneath.
Note: You should be placing nuts and bolts in their labeled containers equally y'all remove them.
Note: When removing brackets, marker their locations or make a simple drawing showing their locations. When disconnecting hoses and cables, make a drawing showing how each 1 is routed. Taking photos before disconnecting brackets, hoses and cables should serve the same purpose, which is to make the installation of these components easier and quicker.
4) CHOCK REAR Cycle – RAISE Forepart OF VEHICLE
Place a bike chock or wooden block backside i of the rear wheels. Using a floor jack, elevator the front of the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Although it is non admittedly necessary, lifting the rear of the vehicle and supporting with jack stands makes the job a niggling easier.
Note: When jacking upwards the vehicle, be sure to give yourself ample room to piece of work underneath. Too, keep in mind that one time the transmission is removed and lowered to the floor, the vehicle must be loftier enough off the floor to allow the transmission to be slid out from underneath the vehicle.
5) Drain Transmission FLUID: Remove all the pan bolts except for a few bolts at one stop of the pan – only loosen these. This will allow the pan to drop down on one stop so the fluid can drain into your take hold of pan. See image>>>
five-A) Later draining the fluid, reposition the pan dorsum to its original position and re-install the pan bolts, simply only hand tighten.
6) Remove driveshaft. Remove the 4 U-joint bolts that agree the driveshaft to the rear differential. Then, using a small pry bar or screwdriver, pry the driveshaft forward to release it from the differential. At present, pull the driveshaft out of the manual and ready aside. Place the U-articulation bolts and hardware in an accordingly marked container.
Tip: When pulling the driveshaft out of the transmission, be careful not to allow information technology to autumn difficult to the floor. Also, wrap tape around the articulation caps to continue them from falling off and the pins from falling out of the caps.
seven) DISCONNECT ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AND HOSES: Disconnect electrical connectors, hoses and cables that are attached to the transmission.
Tip: Use colored markers to mark connectors and hoses for easy and correct installation. Marker the connector and its respective plugin with the aforementioned color. Do the same with vacuum hoses and any other parts that might be confusing during installation.
8) Disassemble TRANSMISSION OIL Cooler LINES
Detach the two transmission oil cooler lines at the transmission.line wrench
Tip: Information technology is best to use a line wrench when loosening and tightening the oil cooler lines. Also, when pulling the lines out, be conscientious non to lose the thin metal washers. The fittings will leak if these washers are non replaced.
nine) REMOVE STARTER BOLTS
If you have not already removed the started bolts, do it now. Again, consummate removal of the starter is normally unnecessary. Just pull it out and abroad from the bell housing so that it does not interfere with the removal of the manual. Secure the starter with a piece of wire or bungee strap. Do not let starter to hang by the starter wiring.
10) REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER TO FLYWHEEL BOLTS
To gain access the torque converter bolts, remove the inspection plate/encompass located at the bottom front of the bong housing. The cover is normally made of thin metallic or aluminum and is held in place by a several 10mm or 12mm bolts. Once embrace is removed, using a flashlight or droplight, look inside the bell housing to locate the bolts/nuts holding the torque converter to the flywheel/flex-plate. You can only remove 1 commodities/nut at a time before having to rotate the engine to gain access to the next bolt/nut.
You tin rotate the engine in one of two means; Employ a billow bar and big socket to rotate the center harmonic balancer commodities on the front of the engine or by leveraging a small pry bar or large screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bong housing in such a way that allows y'all to turn the flywheel in either direction. To make this task easier, remove some or all of the spark plugs from the engine.
Annotation: If y'all are unable to access the torque converter bolts afterward removing the inspection plate cover then your vehicle may exist 1 that requires the converter nuts/bolts to be accessed and removed through the starter opening in the bell housing. These are unremarkably more difficult to remove because in that location is very footling space.
Caution: Be admittedly sure you remove all the torque converter bolts/nuts or else the converter will hang to the flywheel/flex-plate every bit yous are trying to pull the transmission dorsum away from the engine to lower it to the flooring. This state of affairs volition create a real mess and can exist potentially dangerous.
11) REMOVE TRANSMISSION Mount BOLTS/NUTS
Position your hydraulic jack (or transmission jack if you take one) under the transmission pan and enhance slightly. With the weight of the manual resting on the jack, remove the transmission mount bolts. Removing the transmission mount bolts (or nuts) allows the manual to be separated from the cross member.
12) REMOVE Cross Fellow member
Remove the cross fellow member to frame mounting bolts and then remove the cantankerous member.
Tip: If cross fellow member bolts are hard to remove, you need to raise the manual jack to have more of the weight off the cross fellow member.
13) REMOVE Exhaust CROSSOVER Pipe
Depending on the vehicle, it may be necessary to remove certain parts of the exhaust arrangement. Unless the vehicle has duel exhaust all the way dorsum, which well-nigh do not, at that place is a crossover pipe that connects the left side exhaust to the correct side. At a minimum, the crossover pipe must exist removed.
Once the crossover pipe is removed, look closely at the frazzle pipage, (the section of the frazzle organization that includes the catalytic converter and muffler) to decide if information technology also needs to be removed.
Tip: Remove any section of the frazzle organisation that you experience could interfere with your ability to divide the transmission from the engine and lower it to the floor. Having to remove parts of the frazzle after the manual is separated from the engine is much more hard.
xiv) REMOVE Manual BELL HOUSING BOLTS
Remove all the bong housing bolts except one. The bolt y'all leave in should be ane of bottom bolts that is easy to go too.
To remove the top bong housing bolts, if you lot have not already washed so, lower the transmission jack so that the rear of the transmission drops down and abroad from the undercarriage of the vehicle. This will increase the work space on the meridian side of the transmission enabling you to use a ratchet and long extension to remove the upper bell housing bolts.
Annotation: When lowering the transmission in order to give you the added piece of work space needed to remove the meridian bong housing bolts, the weight of the manual still needs to be supported by the jack. If the jack is lowered completely, the engine volition tilt severely on its mounts, possible weakening or breaking the mounts.
Caution: Some hydraulic flooring jacks are very sensitive when lowering and can drop of a sudden. For added safety, place a jack stand up directly under the rear of the transmission to serve as a difficult end.
15) Disassemble Transmission FROM ENGINE AND LOWER TO THE FLOOR:
Before removing the final bong housing commodities, check to brand sure all manual electrical connections accept been disconnected. Also check to brand certain zippo else will interfere with separating the manual from the engine and lowering it to the floor.
15-A) Remove the last remaining bell housing bolt.
15-B) With the assistance of an assistant, agree the manual steady on the jack and motility the jack back and away from the engine just slightly so that the transmission separates from the engine – then slowly lower the jack. When the jack is fully lowered, carefully slide the transmission off the jack to the floor. Now, slide the transmission out from underneath the vehicle.
Alert: In one case the manual is separated from the engine, in that location is cypher holding the torque converter to the transmission. Therefore, it is crucial that the transmission remain level (or slightly titled downward in the rear) while being lowered to the floor. If the front of the transmission is allowed to tilt downward, the converter may slide out of the transmission and fall hard to the flooring. The converter is very heavy and filled with fluid – if it falls, it could injure you or your assistant. The converter could likewise exist damaged and it will surely create a huge mess.
16) SEPARATE TORQUE CONVERTER FROM TRANSMISSION
Once the transmission is moved out from underneath the vehicle, pull the torque converter out of the transmission and drain the fluid into a catch pan.
Notation: The fluid will need to be drained from the converter regardless of whether you plan to reuse it or supplant it. If y'all programme to supervene upon the torque converter with a new or rebuilt converter, the old converter must be drained of the fluid in gild to utilize it every bit a core when purchasing the new or rebuilt converter.
ane) Cascade one quart of transmission fluid into the torque converter and install the torque converter in the transmission. See Annotation below.
Torque Converter Installation Note: You must exist certain the torque converter is fully seated into the manual earlier installation. You should feel three distinctive clicks each time the converter drops into identify. Continue wiggling the torque converter and rotating information technology dorsum and forth while pushing in until it is fully engaged. Do non proceed with manual installation until the converter is fully engaged.
Tip: If you had your transmission rebuilt, ask the rebuilder to install the torque converter into the transmission.
2) Install whatever brackets to the manual that were removed after the transmission was removed from the vehicle.
Flushing Cooler Lines Note: Flushing the oil cooler lines before installing a new or rebuilt transmission is admittedly necessary to insure the new transmission is not contaminated with debris and metallic left in the lines from the old transmission.
To affluent the lines, first blow compressed air through the lines. Use a gallon milk jug to catch the fluid and debris equally it is blown out of the lines. Subsequently blowing compressed air through the lines, utilize a transmission line affluent product to complete the flush. Follow instructions provided with product. Not flushing the cooler lines is the #1 crusade of early failure of a newly rebuilt or remanufactured transmission into a vehicle.
4) Inspect the mating surfaces of both the transmission bell housing and engine for dirt and grease and clean as needed. Likewise bank check the dowel pins on the engine and the dowel pivot holes on the transmission as they also must be clean and complimentary of burs.
5) Look closely at the crank airplane pilot pigsty to insure it is free of burs, dirt and rust. Use a pocket-size circular file to remove any burs. Finally, check to make sure electrical wiring and cables are moved aside and then as not to interfere with the transmission installation.
vi) Lift up one side of the transmission and accept your assistant slide the jack under the manual pan. With the transmission balanced on the jack, slide the jack nether the vehicle. Position the jack so that when information technology is raised the transmission bong housing volition be slightly backside the engine.
7) Concord the transmissions stable on the jack while raising it. When the transmission is in position, carefully slide the jack forward until the bell housing touches the dorsum of the engine. Yous may need to raise or lower the jack slightly or movement it slightly to one side or the other to line upwards the dowels with the dowel holes. One time lined upwards, button the manual forwards. When the dowel pins are in the dowel holes, install the bong housing bolts.
Bong Housing Bolt Installation and Tightening Note: In one case you have the transmission bong housing bolt holes lined upwards with the threaded holes in the engine block then outset a couple of bolts and tighten just plenty and then the transmission does not sideslip back abroad from the engine block. And then install the remaining bolts. Exercise NOT FULLY TIGHTEN ANY OF THE BOLTS UNTIL ALL THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS ARE STARTED AND SNUG.
Warning: Do not effort to draw (or force) the transmission into position past tightening the bong housing bolts as doing then tin crack the bell housing. You have to be sure the manual and engine block mating surfaces are lined up on both the top/lesser and the left/right axis before tightening the bolts.
8) Install the torque converter bolts. Line upwardly the torque converter holes with the holes in the flywheel. Install one commodities but exercise not fully tighten. Then, utilise a large flat caput screwdriver or small-scale pry bar to wedge betwixt the flywheel teeth and the bell housing to plow the engine in society to gain access to the side by side bolt hole. Repeat this until all the torque converter bolts are installed. Once all bolts have been started then tighten each bolt to the proper torque specification.
9) Next, install the starter. Go both starter bolts started earlier fully tightening the bolts. In some instances, it is easier to connect the starter wire(southward) before bolting the starter in place. Either way, connect the starter wires at this time.
ten) Hook up/plug in all electrical connectors and vacuum hoses. Install the transmission oil filler dipstick tube. Install the new filler tube O-ring that came with the rebuild kit.
11) Install the cooler lines, shifter linkage, exhaust, flywheel/flex-plate cover, cross member and and so the driveshaft.
12) Remove the jack and all tools from underneath the vehicle. Jack up the vehicle and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
thirteen) Install the battery and reconnect the bombardment cable(due south). If both battery cables have been disconnected, install the positive battery cable first and and so the negative cable. Plug in whatever top side electrical connectors and vacuum hoses. Install any elevation side parts that you removed during transmission removal.
14) Pour 5 to half dozen quarts of manual fluid into the manual. Yous will need a funnel with a small opening so that it fits downward into the transmission oil filler tube. Outset the engine and with the brake pedal depressed, move the shifter through each of the gears a coupler of times and then place the shifter back to the Park position.
With the engine still running, add two more than quarts of transmission fluid and move the shifter through the gears again and then back to Park.
With the engine still running, insert the dipstick into the filler tube and and then pull information technology back out to check the fluid level. Add fluid as needed until the dipstick shows "full" or in the "full range".
15) Bank check underneath the vehicle for leaks. If no leaks, it is time to examination drive the vehicle. Good luck!
Source: https://streetsmarttransmission.com/diy-remove-automatic-transmission-and-install-rwd/
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